Corso Vannucci intersects the historic center of Perugia just one block from our apartment. This is the main street – a pedestrian only street – where Perugians take their evening stroll (la passeggiata). In every Italian city beginning every night around 6:30 pm, the energy of the town goes up a couple notches. The women dress up. The men might dress up. Friends, couples and families join the crowds for a couple hours before dinner. It’s the most vibrant time of the day. We can hear the noise from our windows. When we look outside, the gelato line extends past the doors. The outside cafes start to fill up. The streets crowd with people walking slowly from “Piazza Italia” to “Piazza IV Novembre” and back again. Often they’ll pause, light a cigarette, and look in a fancy window display or stop for an aperitif (more on that later this week.) It’s hard to resist. As we join in the parade, we realize it’s not about the destination (because, like I said, you just go up and down the street). Instead, it’s about seeing and being seen. It marks the festive transition from the work day to an enjoyable evening. It’s about getting a second wind before you start cooking in a hot kitchen. And for us, it’s also an introduction to Italian fashion. I don’t pretend to be an expert on dressing well (I just got rid of my fanny pack a few years ago) but here are a few observations.